The Crank Length Argument
In the last three to four years, there has been a trend among not only top-level athletes but also industry leaders towards the use of shorter cranks. Many cycling outlets have reported on how shorter cranks have so many benefits for all types of riders. Tadej Pogačar, who is 5'9", won this year's Tour De France and Giro D'Italia on 165mm cranks. Tom Pidcock, the 5'7" British cycling multi-discipline star and Paris Olympic mountain bike champion, also runs 165mm cranks. This got me thinking. Being 6’1”, and long-legged, the thought of “this doesn't apply to me, my legs are too lanky” went through my head every time I read about it. From when I first started bike racing as a wee lad, to the last stock bike I bought (last year), every bike I had owned was equipped with 175mm cranks. Riding a size large, this was the standard. I never knew anything different. I never really had any issues. Then I read how Ineos rider, Filippo Ganna is 6'4 and rides 170mm cranks. This convinced me to give it a shot. Intrigued by the likes of many pros, and inspired by Tadej Pogačar's current domination with 165mm cranks in the tour, I set out to go shorter myself.
Up until last year, I had never owned a road bike. Sure, I did some gravel occasionally, but mountain biking was my domain. Wanting to mix it up, I stepped out of my comfort zone and bought my first road bike, a BMC Teammachine. After riding all of 2023 on that BMC, road bike became something I thoroughly enjoy. My 58cm BMC came, as expected, with 175mm crankarms. Being on the staff at the shop, I have the opportunity to ride a lot of bikes so I decided to purchase an Enve Melee this spring and had a chance to build it from the "frame-up". This allowed me to be more specific on the individual components including choosing 170mm cranks. Now with months of power meter data and 175 vs 170 cranks, the numbers don't lie, and neither do my knees ;)
Why try shorter cranks?
The virtues of running short cranks include increased comfort, better aerodynamics and the ability to produce more power. The physics don't lie. Power is a function of force on the pedals and cadence, so if you can maintain the force, but increase the cadence - you make more power. only a couple of weeks of riding, I already enjoyed the shorter cranks more, not even looking at the numbers. I felt less wear over long rides, and less knee pain that I sometimes would get climbing at the end of a long week. I also noticed that I could breathe a little better with my more rolled-over position on the bike than I had been able to previously due to less hip pinching. Was there a placebo effect? I am always dubious of whether what I am feeling is placebo or not so I tracked the numbers.
The sample group for this little experiment is rides exclusively between 60-150 miles and 16 rides for both. Plus these rides are taken in Zone 2 by heart rate and power by the numbers, here's how the rides break down…
175mm Cranks |
170mm Cranks |
|
Average Cadence |
72 rpm |
73.5 rpm |
As expected, the shorter crank increased my cadence. While it was only an increase of 1.5 RPMs, this is a step in the right direction. Think about minimizing knee movement as maximizing efficiency. For every full rotation of the cranks, both knees have to bend at the top of the pedal stroke, moving (depending on the person's saddle height) around 90-110° at the knee. Shorter cranks make for a less severe angle on the knee at the top of every pedal stroke. A less severe angle should help towards more knee health in theory. In some cases, cyclists also have reported less back pain with shorter cranks. Shorter cranks improve hip mobility by opening up the front of the hips, reducing tightness and improving comfort.
How much are you saving?
Let's think about this as a distance saved as the circle the foot moves in a full-pedal revolution. With some basic geometry, a 175mm crank arm makes for just under 1100mm of travel during a single pedal stroke. With a 170mm crank, the distance is just over 1068. That's 32mm less movement per leg, per pedal stroke.
So 32mm of less movement for a 5mm shorter crank. 32mm is not a lot, but now imagine that same 32mm of saved movement 73 times a minute. Then consider the cumulative impact on a five-hour ride. While I am a fairly low cadence rider, if your average cadence is 80, 85, 90 or above, it's going to matter even more. If my average cadence is 73rpm, that means I am not just saving 32 mm of movement, but over the course of one hour, I am saving 140 meters of movement. If the rider's cadence is closer to 80rpm, saving nearly 154 meters of movement per hour. This sounds like a lot, but lets hammer it in more. These numbers are for only one leg. Think about how much you ride in a year. Your knees, hips, and back might thank you. Your cycling performance might also!
What size should you be running?
There is a lot of support for shorter cranks from bike-fitters and physiologists. It is not the easiest thing to "try" because it requires a new set of cranks. For my test, I compared 175mm cranks to the 170mm. As I am pretty tall, 170mm would be considered on the shorter side of cranks for me. Shorter cranks will help with how high the knees come towards a riders chest. SRAM makes the Force carbon crank as short as 165mm. For a rough guide, look at 165mm cranks for people from >5’-5’5”, 167.5 for 5’6”-5’10”, 170mm for 5’10”-6’1”, 172.5 for 6’2”-6’4”, 175mm for 6’4” +. You can go lower and higher than this according to personal preference.
Other questions?
There's a lot to think about when it comes to cranks, but the number of great options out there makes it fairly easy to implement. For those who want to feel like Tadej and run shorter cranks, let us know if we can answer any questions or help with further recommendations. Give us a ring at the shop, drop us an email, or reach out on the chat and we'll help set you up!
I switched to 170mm cranks in 2019 after being on 172.5 and 175 for over 20 years before that. I am 5’ 9” and a spinner on long climbs and decided to switch and worked out great for me. I do have a 6mm shorter right leg with a boot under the cleat and shorter cranks reduced hip and knee pain even after the pro bike fit.
I was also ahead of the large casssette movement in 2012 when I was using a 50×34 and 11×36 (SRAM) gearing on the original DA Di2 with K-edge rear der. to climb in the Alps during a 7 day event where people made fun of my “dinner plate” in the back.
Thinking of trying out 167.5 or 165mm cranset soon if I find them on sale.
Tekin on
Hey Dervin,
Yes! It still applies to MTB. As the article mentions, I was an MTB racer and that is actually still my main discipline, and I also run shorter cranks on my MTB bikes. For long trail rides, you will still notice the difference. It also helps in MTB to increase ground clearance and reduces the chance of crank strikes. In fact, on my trail/enduro bike, I go even shorter to 165mm cranks to reduce crank strikes because the BB on those bigger travel bikes is so low.
Isaac Boyden - Contender Bicycles on
Thanks for the article – how would this translate to MTB, does the same theory apply?
Devrin on
Excellent article. I agree with your observations, and have experienced similar results. I’m 6’4" and have been riding for several decades.
Other issues worth considering are type of riding and leverage. My road bike is a BMC Teammachine. A couple of decades ago, the trend was towards longer cranks because of leverage (a longer crank is a longer lever, providing more mechanical advantage). Size charts of the time said that I should be on 180s, which seemed extreme, so I tried moving up to 177.5 from my 175s. After a couple of years, I became aware of the greater difficulty required to maintain good cadence, and realized I was developing a tendency towards mashing to compensate for dropping cadence. I went back to the 175s, which felt perfect.
I got a BMC Trackmachine around this time, and fell in love with fixed-gear riding on the road. The Teammachine became my standard bike for hilly rides and canyons, and the Trackmachine is my tool-of-choice for flatter rides in the valley. I started out with 175 cranks because I knew they worked for me on the road bike, but quickly found that I was getting thrashed on the fixie. Instead of just shifting into a bigger gear to maintain proper cadence, downhill grades and tailwinds often have me spinning at well over 100 RPM on the fixed-gear single-speed. I was flailing.
I overreacted, and got 170s. This completely solved the problem and allowed me to spin smoothly even at blinding RPMs, but after a couple of years I noticed that I was bogging down on climbs (compared to the road bike). I also felt confined, like I just wasn’t using enough of the range of my 36" inseam legs. I got some 172.5 cranks and they are perfect. No problems spinning, great power delivery, and the bike feels really good.
It’s hard to imagine that just a couple of millimeters here or there could make a difference, but when you’ve been riding a lot for a long time, and you have your fit dialed in, you can really feel it. On my road bike, which I use more for climbing and I have the ability shift into the best gear for decent cadence, leverage is a little more important than it is on the fixie, which is all about developing a good spin in a limited situation. For me, 175s feel perfect for the road bike (172.5s would feel too short), but 172.5s feel perfect on the fixie (175s feel too long). Again, at 6’4" I’m pretty tall. Clearly, for me at least, different types of riding emphasize different techniques and priorities, which can also effect ideal crank length. Take this for what it’s worth. Thanks again for a great article.
David Baddley on
Hey Kevin,
EBikes and Mountain bikes were actually early to the short crank trend. We have had shop employees on 165mm cranks for a few years now to decrease crank strikes, and increase stability.
Thanks,
Joseph
Joseph - Contender Bicycles on